If you are planning to do any cruising that takes you away from your dock or mooring for even a single overnight, there are five things that you simply must know how to do on your diesel engine.

1. Replace the Fuel Filter

Diesel fuel is prone to contamination and water accumulation, especially in the marine environment. Diesel fuel, unlike gasoline, can actually support microbial growth, often incorrectly referred to as algae. That black slime is a microscopic goo of “bugs” that can thrive in a boat’s fuel tank. Typically, they live right at the line where water in the fuel and the fuel itself meets. 

The water will always settle to the bottom of a filter assembly. It is imperative that a diesel engine be equipped with two fuel filters: a primary and a secondary. You need to know how to service these filters when the worst happens, should they become waterlogged or clogged with contaminants. 

Filter elements are among the mandatory spares you need to keep on board. I highly recommend the Racor brand, preferably those equipped with a water alarm system, as primary filters. These have a clear fuel bowl that lets you actually see water and/or contamination in the fuel. This is a major improvement over the solid metal filter housings that are typical as secondary filters with diesel engines. 

Swapping out these fuel-­filter elements is easy. You’ll need the correct size spanner wrench to loosen the single nut that holds the element into its housing. You’ll also need a drip pan to catch fuel that spills as you remove the filter housing assembly. 

Make sure to replace the sealing gasket at the top of the filter housing assembly. Also make sure the new filter is a match for the one you are replacing. These are rated in micron size. Typical micron ratings are 5, 10 or 20, but they could be as small as 2 microns for the secondary filter. 

Once reassembled, your filter assembly will be full of air. This is going to need to be bled out before running the engine. 

2. Bleed the Fuel System

Air in your engine’s fuel system will occur when you replace your fuel filters, or if you run out of fuel in your tank. Either way, you are going to need to bleed the air out of your fuel system. 

The method will vary depending upon the type of primary fuel pump. It gets the fuel from your tank to the engine.

If your boat has an ­electric pump, things will be easy. Simply crack open the fuel line that connects to the high-pressure injection pump on your engine, and then turn on the electric pump. Once you see fuel spitting out of the fuel-line connection, tighten the nut. Next, go to the engine’s fuel injectors and crack open the hex nut on the fuel line at the injector farthest from the injection pump. Tighten the connection when you see fuel spitting out of the line at the injector. Repeat this process on each fuel line, moving to the closest to the ­high-pressure injection pump. 

If your engine has a ­mechanical primary fuel pump, then it will most likely have a small lever to let you activate the pump manually. Once all the air is bled out of the system, the engine should start up as normal. 

One extremely important exception is if you have a newer electronic common rail injection system. Never, ever attempt to bleed these ­systems. They are self-­bleeding, and they run at extremely high pressures that will cause personal injury if fuel sprays you.

3. Replace the ­Water-Pump ­Impeller

Add to your minimum spare parts list a raw-water pump impeller and cover gasket. 

If you maintain your boat religiously, then you will rarely have to replace this impeller on an emergency basis. I replace the impeller on my boat every two boating seasons and have never had one fail. That said, it does happen, and replacement intervals will be dictated more by engine run time versus monthly intervals. 

A clogged seawater ­strainer in the line that supplies water to the pump could cause an emergency failure. The impeller is made of rubber and is self-lubricated by this seawater. No water means no lubricant for the impeller, and premature failure will ­happen. It’s always best to follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations as to service intervals. 

To replace the impeller, remove the screws holding the pump housing cover. Typically, you’ll find a super-thin cover gasket. This will need to be replaced. 

The rubber impeller can now be removed. Typically, prying it out with a pair of small screwdrivers will do the trick in sliding the rubber impeller off its driveshaft. A plethora of YouTube videos demonstrate how to service a raw-water pump. I recommend viewing several before you attempt this task.

4. Change the Engine Oil and Filter

Your engine manufacturer will specify change frequencies, along with oil type (American Petroleum Institute rating) and viscosity levels. It is imperative to use only the ­viscosity and API service rating recommended. Not all 30W oil is the same. 

Even though your engine may have a conventional drain plug at the low point of the engine sump, in most marine installations, you won’t be able to access it effectively with a drain pan to catch the old oil as it drains out. So, the most common approach is to draw the old oil out of the engine through the dipstick hole. West Marine offers pump kits ranging from about $45 to $200, depending on how fancy you want to get. 

Run your engine to warm things up before you begin the oil-change process. It’ll make things much easier because it will thin out the oil a bit.

Oil filters today are by and large of the spin-on variety. You might want to acquire an appropriately sized filter wrench to help with removal. Depending on the filter’s location on your engine, you might need a small catch basin to collect oil that leaks out as you remove the filter element. 

Once it’s off, double-check to be certain that the gasket seal for the filter came off with the filter. The seal can stick on the engine. Remove it if it did remain in place. 

Next, apply some oil on the gasket on the new filter, and screw it onto the engine. Hand-tighten only. Don’t ever use the filter wrench to tighten the new filter.

Next, insert the thin tube that came with the new oil-change pump into the dipstick hole on your engine until it bottoms out. Activate the pump (electric or manual), and suck the oil out of your engine.

Once all the old oil is removed, add the new oil in the amount specified in your engine manual. Start the engine, and look for any sign of leaking at the filter. Then shut down the engine and recheck the oil level. 

5. Shut Down a Runaway Diesel

Although rare, having a “runaway” diesel is a terrifying experience for the uninitiated. You shut off all the engine controls, but your engine continues to run at full speed. 

A number of things can cause this: excessive oil consumption that leads to oil accumulation in the combustion chamber, crankcase oil vapor entering the combustion chamber, turbocharger failure, damaged turbo seals, and fuel-system faults.

The good news is that all of this is unlikely on fairly new, well-maintained engines. But there are plenty of 20-year-old diesels in service today, and they are vulnerable. 

Your diesel needs three things to run: air, fuel and compression. To stop a runaway, remove the easiest thing on that list to eliminate: air. Most diesels have some sort of an air breather protecting the air intake on the engine. It looks like an air cleaner on most engines but might not have a filter element installed. (Air filters are pretty useless at sea, where there’s not a lot of dust flying about.) 

Keep a small block of wood on board that will give you a handhold, and block the air intake on the engine. Hold it in place, being careful to keep any and all body parts away from the air-intake hole. The suction will be extreme. 

Expect the engine to continue running for a few minutes, depending on the size of the air-intake manifold. Eventually, the engine will smother itself and shut down. Then comes the hard work: finding the exact cause of the runaway.

The post 5 DIY Basics For Your Diesel Engine appeared first on Cruising World.

Sailboats are revered for their eco-friendliness and the poetic dance with the wind that propels them forward. However, when it comes to auxiliary power, the debate about diesel ­engines and electric ­conversion has sparked considerable interest. 

Here we’ll shed light on the times when sticking with an ol’ diesel might be a better choice than an electric conversion.

Energy Density and Range

One of the primary reasons that diesel engines can be more efficient on sailboats is their high energy density. Diesel fuel packs significantly more energy per unit of volume compared with batteries used in electric propulsion systems. This high energy density translates to longer range and reduced refueling stops, making the engine more suitable for extended voyages, or for times when access to charging points is limited. 

Modern diesel engines are designed to be fuel-efficient, providing better mileage per gallon of fuel compared with older models. Even by keeping older diesel engines well-­maintained, you maximize the efficiency, thereby reducing fuel consumption and ­greenhouse gas emissions. 

(Note that if you are using a gas-powered generator to supplement your power needs on the hook, you are potentially canceling out your sustainable efforts by going electric, and will also be carrying a highly flammable substance aboard.)

Simplicity and Reliability

Diesel engines have a long-standing reputation for simplicity and reliability. They are time-tested, proven workhorses that require minimal maintenance and troubleshooting expertise. When a diesel engine experiences a problem, the diagnostics can be more straightforward compared with electric ­powertrains. Traditional mechanical issues, such as fuel-delivery problems or air-intake issues, are often easier to identify and address. Additionally, many components within a diesel engine can be repaired or rebuilt, such as fuel injectors, pumps, and turbochargers. This reduces the need for complete ­replacements, ­making repairs more ­cost-effective in many cases.

On the other hand, electric engines are continually improving, including becoming more serviceable. As electric vehicles gain popularity, mechanics are gaining experience in dealing with electric powertrains, and specialized training programs are more widespread. As a result, electric engines might become easier to work on in the future.

Weight and Space Considerations

For sailboats, weight is a crucial factor that affects performance. Diesel engines, in general, are more compact and lighter compared with electric propulsion systems, particularly when considering the weight of batteries required for electric conversion. The added weight of batteries can alter the boat’s balance and potentially affect its sailing characteristics. 

Sailors with smaller boats, or those seeking optimal performance, might find diesel engines a more suitable option because of their space-­saving and lightweight nature. However, if you are able to compensate for the weight and space necessary to support an electric conversion without compromising your sailing efficiency, then electric might be the avenue for you.

Cost 

Diesel engines remain relatively more affordable upfront, especially for retrofitting an existing sailboat. Purchasing and installing a diesel engine is generally less expensive than acquiring the necessary components for an electric conversion, including batteries, motors, controllers, and charging infrastructure. Batteries constitute a significant portion of the cost in electric conversions. Over time, batteries might require replacement, and this expense can be substantial.

Additionally, the cost of maintaining and repairing diesel engines can be lower because of their simplicity and the wide availability of spare parts and skilled mechanics.

However, the cost ­dynamics of electric propulsion systems are evolving rapidly. The increasing focus on environmental concerns and sustainability might lead to advancements and ­incentives that further ­promote the adoption of onboard electric ­propulsion.

Sustainability

Sustainability is the hottest topic within this debate. While electric propulsion is undoubtedly a more sustainable option, maintaining an old diesel engine on a sailboat can be a responsible environmental choice in certain scenarios. 

Producing new electric propulsion systems, especially batteries, requires significant amounts of raw materials and energy. This process can contribute to a larger initial environmental footprint. Replacing a functional diesel engine with an electric propulsion system also generates waste, including disposal of the old engine.

Battery disposal can present environmental challenges. By sticking with a diesel engine, you avoid the potential issues associated with battery recycling. And, if the electricity used to charge the batteries primarily comes from ­nonrenewable sources, such as coal or natural gas, then the overall environmental benefit might be diminished compared with a well-maintained diesel engine.

The Choice Is Yours

The right option ultimately boils down to individual preferences, usage patterns and environmental considerations. Electric propulsion is undoubtedly a more sustainable option for the future of sailing and is likely to become more competitive with diesels in terms of efficiency and range, but for now, both options offer distinct advantages, and the decision rests with each sailor’s ­circumstances. —Marissa Neely

Marissa Neely has lived aboard her 1979 Cheoy Lee 41, Avocet, with her husband, Chris, since they bought the boat in 2018. Follow them on YouTube at “Sailing Avocet,” or go to ­svavocet.com.

The post Unraveling Efficiency: Diesel vs. Electric Propulsion appeared first on Cruising World.

So, how’s your drive? I’m not talking about your daily commute or personal energy level here. I’m talking about your saildrive, if you have one. Increasingly, boatbuilders are adopting saildrives over the traditional shaft and propeller, and with good reason: They’re much easier to install, and they offer a considerably quieter ride when the wind dies and you simply must fire up the diesel. During CW‘s Boat of the Year competition in 2009, for example, a third of the new boats we looked at were equipped with saildrive propulsion, so they’re here to stay. And though early adopters of the drives experienced some well-publicized problems, the technology has evolved considerably since then.

I can remember some of the conversations with my colleagues when saildrives first appeared. Thoughts of failure of the rubber bladder that seals them to the hull were at the top of the list of why they were a bad idea. Some of us had lingering memories of Outboard Marine Corporation’s early attempt at offering saildrive functionality, basically by using an outboard-engine power head with a lower unit mounted inboard. They were very problematic and only lasted a few years before they disappeared into the not-such-a-great-idea department.

Well, we’re past all of that. Today, both Volvo Penta and Yanmar offer complete saildrive solutions. The initial fears of rubber-bladder failure are simply no longer an issue. I haven’t heard of one case in which this has occurred. Certainly this is a maintenance item that needs addressing at some point, but premature failure has not been a factor.

What has been a factor is rampant corrosion of the aluminum drive units, with total replacement—at great expense—sometimes required. In some cases, the rapid decay has been so severe that drives appear to have dissolved off the bottom of the boats to which they were fitted. Many online forums and discussions have addressed this problem, and much misinformation about the causes for this corrosion has been distributed widely. I hope to end much of the confusion right now.

Anode-to-Cathode Relationship

The essence of the problem centers around one basic corrosion-mitigation premise: that there exists a proper relationship between the surface area of the anode, typically a zinc or aluminum-alloy fitting, and the surface area of the cathode, which includes the saildrive, the propeller, and any other metal below-the-water fittings. What this means simply is that the amount of metal exposed to the electrolyte (the water in which the boat floats) must be proportional to the amount of sacrificial anode installed on the boat.

It’s important to remember here that drive manufacturers install anodes on their drive units at the factory that are intended to protect the drive units only as shipped with their standard propeller. Let me repeat that: The anodes supplied are engineered to protect the drive units and standard props only. Many sailors will add a bronze feathering propeller to the drive, which means that more anode area is going to be needed, though too often this is overlooked. This simple alteration is going to decrease the anode service life because more cathode area has been added. Additional bronze through-hull fittings may also be added, again requiring additional anode surface area.

On several boats I’ve inspected after the damage was done, lead or cast-iron keels had been exposed to seawater due either to faulty paint systems on the metal keels or, in one case, because the owner was racing the boat and had wet-sanded the epoxy barrier coating on the lead down to bare metal. In any of these cases, the anode-to-cathode surface-area relationship had been altered, and insufficient anode area caused the factory-installed anodes to dissolve quite quickly, in a matter of weeks instead of months. Remember that the next bit of metal in the corrosion food chain after the anodes is the drive casing itself, which, made of aluminum, is far more susceptible to anodic action than bronze through-hulls or other fittings.

The Cathodic Protection System

To fully understand the cause of this corrosion, you need to understand how and why a properly designed cathodic protection system works. The system begins by tying all of the underwater metals together electrically via a bonding system. On most boats, this is accomplished with green insulated wire, sized 8 gauge or larger. What happens next is an electro-chemical process known as polarization of the metals. You see, all metals when submerged in an electrolyte solution (such as salt water) have a voltage potential. Potentials vary depending upon the specific alloy used. By electrically connecting all of the various alloys, once polarization occurs, the voltage potentials equalize. Anodes need to be tied to this same bonding system, and the anode material must have a voltage potential at least 200 millivolts more negative than the rest of the system. The anodes then become the sacrificial component within the system; enough anode mass needs to be added to ensure satisfactory service life, which is generally considered to be six to nine months. At that interval, you need to install new anodes.

Hey, It’s the Neighbors

Essentially what’s being created with this bonding system is what we call a galvanic cell, with an anode and cathode connected electrically and both submerged in the same electrolyte solution, in this case, the water around your boat. Think of it as a giant battery. Low-level current flows from the more negative anode to the cathode, but because each element of the cathode has undergone polarization, their potential voltage is equal, so none experiences corrosion. Instead, the anode slowly wears away.

Remember that there has to be a difference in potential for current to flow. That’s the operating premise behind bonding; if all of the potentials are equalized due to polarization, there can be no current flow between the individual elements. So a boat with proper anodes, sitting in a lone anchorage or on a mooring, isn’t likely to suffer from galvanic corrosion.

But what about boats in a marina? That’s a whole nother story. The issue at hand is that the green wire that ties the metals on a boat together is a part of the overall grounding system and, so, is also connected to the boat’s shore-power grounding system. The significance of this is that whenever your boat is plugged in to shore power, it means that you’re electrically connected to all of your dock mates via the green wire, which is continuous throughout the entire dock.
Because of these continuous links among all the boats, your boat’s anodes may actually be helping to protect one of your dock mates from corrosion, putting a heavy demand on your boat’s anodes and causing accelerated anode depletion. In other words, the boats around you are causing your anodes to wear away faster than you might expect; hence, your saildrive is unwittingly put at risk.

To mitigate this problem, you must have a galvanic isolator installed in your shore-power system. In essence, this device is installed in series with the green wire in your shore-power wiring, in accordance with the American Boat & Yacht Council’s Standards, Section E-2: “Cathodic Protection Systems.” The galvanic isolator works by blocking low-level galvanic current, but it allows the passage of AC fault current in the green wire if called into action due to an AC-system short circuit. It’s important to remember that by removing any one of the components of a galvanic cell, which needs an anode, cathode, a hard-wire connection between the two, and an electrolyte, you stop the corrosion process. The galvanic isolator blocks the hard-wire connection to others in the marina, leaving your anodes to work for your boat alone.

A new trick that some of us who are involved with marine-corrosion issues are now employing involves using a galvanic isolator installed in the green-wire link from a saildrive and engine to a keel bolt, and hence the keel, since these metal components are in most cases connected via the bonding system. This installation effectively isolates the keel, from a galvanic perspective, from the drive in the event that the keel does lose any of its protective barrier coating. (More on coatings in a minute.)

Choose the Correct Anode

Although most people refer to their anodes as “zincs,” they may not be made of zinc, and using the correct anode material for given water chemistry is, in fact, of paramount importance. Anodes come in three basic materials: zinc, aluminum, and magnesium. All three are actually very specialized alloys of each of these metals, and they’re designed to achieve appropriate voltage potentials in salt water, fresh water, and brackish seawater.

The proper selection of anode material can’t be overstressed. One fellow who lost several saildrives finally found out that the zinc anodes installed at the factory on his boat weren’t really doing anything to protect against corrosion in the brackish water in which he kept his boat. In fact, aluminum anodes would’ve been the preferred choice.

The reason for this difference in material selection centers around the relative conductivity of the water in which your boat sits. Salt water is quite conductive, so zinc anodes, which have an electrical potential of around -1,050 millivolts, work just fine. Brackish water is quite subjective depending upon its salinity, so aluminum anodes, with a voltage potential of -1,100 millivolts, perform better due to their slightly higher voltage potential; these actually can also be the best choice in salt water. In fact, most outboard-engine makers now supply these as standard equipment, not knowing where the engines will be used. Magnesium, which should only be used in fresh water, can have a negative voltage potential up to around -1,630 millivolts; it can be quite damaging to aluminum if used in salt water.

The Importance of Coatings

One of the most important components in the mitigation of corrosion is the proper type and application of protective metal coatings. Proper coating effectively insulates metal from the electrolyte surrounding it, again eliminating one of the components necessary to complete the galvanic cell. On a drive unit on which this coating is beginning to be compromised, this puts a higher demand on the anodes, and once they’re depleted, the drive begins to corrode rapidly.
The best base coatings we have available to us today are any of the epoxy barrier coats available, such as Interlux Interprotect. Apply this to all underwater metals, including bronze through-hulls, before any anti-fouling coating goes on. On drives that have already been submerged in salt water, another hidden enemy lurks: soluble salts, which are invisible and tasteless. These microscopic particles cause premature paint-system failure and must be cleaned away before any epoxy or paint is applied. The trouble is, these particles are difficult to clean off. In fact, a typical boatyard pressure washer won’t remove them. Yanmar, for example, recommends both a test kit and a biodegradable neutralizing wash made by Chlor-rid Corporation (www.chlor-rid.com). If you’re recoating a saildrive, this step is super important to ensure that the coating stays on the aluminum.

The primer and anti-fouling are important too. Don’t use any anti-fouling paint containing copper on a saildrive. Yanmar says that the Interlux Trilux 33 system or its equivalent should be used.

The Final Check

You must perform a final check to be sure that you’ve achieved the proper level of cathodic protection. You can do this yourself by using a standard multimeter/silver-chloride reference-cell combination instrument. To do this, make sure your boat is unplugged from shore power. Set your multi-meter to the DC-volts scale. Connect the positive lead from your meter to the boat’s grounding buss (the one to which all the green insulated wires are attached). Submerge the reference cell in water to the same approximated depth as the installed anodes on your boat. If all is well, you should see a negative voltage reading of between -950 to -1,100 millivolts. If the reading is too low—that is, less than -950 millivolts—then you need more anode surface area.

My recommendation is to employ the services of an ABYC-certified corrosion technician to perform what’s known as a Hull Potential Test. Do the test only after the boat has been floating in its usual location for several days. The polarization process doesn’t occur immediately; it usually takes 24 to 48 hours. The correct level of cathodic protection will vary depending on hull material and how your boat is configured. To get an idea of the range of voltages the tester should get, see “Recommended Range of Cathodic Protection for Boats with Saildrives” (left).

Remember that the initial reading when all anodes are new should be toward the more negative, say, perhaps, -1,100 millivolts. This is because as the anodes deplete, the voltage range will shift to a more positive number, eventually indicating under-protection. It is also quite important that the number not be any greater than -1,100 millivolts in order to protect your saildrive. Aluminum is somewhat unique among marine metals in that it can be easily overprotected or underprotected cathodically, and in either case, damage to the casting will occur. Sometimes this happens quite rapidly.

To sum up: If you follow the advice here, your drive should give you many years of good service. But I must emphasize: Diligence is of paramount importance. Don’t let anyone tell you that six to eight weeks of anode life is acceptable; this is a common depletion rate only when something is wrong.

Ed Sherman, the curriculum director for the American Boat & Yacht Council, was a 2011 Boat of the Year judge.

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Lunenburg Foundry

In Greek mythology, the god Hephaestus was the master of all things metal on Mount Olympus. As the blacksmith of the gods, he forged all of their gear, from the winged helmet and sandals of Hermes to the bow and arrows of Eros, and he had a special kinship with metal, fire, and volcanoes. The crew of Osprey didn’t expect to encounter any of the god’s earthly apprentices while we cruised in the waters of Nova Scotia, but we did. Arrayed in an odd combination of flip-flops and safety goggles, we stood on a dirt floor and watched history take shape as molten metal poured forth from a glowing red vessel, continuing today an art form that the Lunenburg Foundry has been perfecting since 1891.

Lunenburg Industrial Foundry & Engineering has played such an integral part in North Atlantic maritime history that it’s fair to say that few ships set sail from these storied shores without at least one piece from the company on board. LIFE may be best known for its famous Atlantic Marine engines, called “one-lungers” and “make-and-breaks,” whose signature putt-putt-putts can still be heard today barking through a thick morning fog. The Foundry’s cast-iron stoves, such as the diminutive Little Cod and Sardine, still heat boat cabins around the world.

Through its remarkable history, the Foundry has evolved, along with the ships and boats that it’s helped build and fit out, from the age of wooden sail to modern ships and yachts and the restoration of Bluenose II, Canada’s flagship schooner. Today the company works with the most cutting-edge technologies to continue serving the maritime community. But in its foundry, located at the head of Lunenburg’s harbor in a shaggy, red-painted building whose sides still advertise Sherman Whaling Supplies and Lubricating and Burning Oils, men continue to cast metal using an ancient process and hand-made forms that have turned out woodstoves, engines, propellers, shafts, bells, and even a bright brass star to top a Christmas tree.

We could hear, long before we stepped through the foundry’s door, the demonic, throaty roar of the furnace. Peeking at the beast itself, we saw a squat, round platform. It looked a lot like the top of a well, but it was Hephaestus’ forge incarnate. From a hole in the center roared a flame so intense that it looked like it came from the business end of a jet fighter. Off to one side stood a box of shiny bronze ingots, stacked like dazzling cordwood.

Out in the main casting area, a row of wooden crates called mold boxes squatted on the sand-packed floor; each box was filled with compacted silica sand. Metal patterns for stuffing boxes had already been laid into the sand and extracted, leaving a precise negative form within waiting to be filled. From each box protruded a short, white PVC chimney to let heat and gases escape after the metal was poured.

All of this was fascinating, but when the three men working the pour approached us while guiding the red-hot vessel fresh from the furnace and suspended by metal clamps just off the floor, the process went straight to jaw-dropping. With few words, the three executed a perfectly choreographed dance, guiding streams of molten metal precisely into a small opening in the top of each box the way you or I might pour maple syrup from a pitcher onto pancakes. Steam and smoke spouted from the chimneys, and small jets of flame flickered from several boxes long after the pour was over.

It was the men’s quiet competence in the presence of the ferocious elements that they handled that made the whole scene appear unreal. What was everyday work for them was a wonder for us, and we were grateful for the chance to watch these sons of Hephaestus in their world of fire creating something useful, something beautiful, something alive.

This December, the Clarkes added a Lunenburg Foundry brass star to the top of Osprey‘s tree.

Check out a photo gallery of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia at our sister publication, Yachting.

The post Hanging with Hephaestus: Visiting the Lunenburg Foundry appeared first on Cruising World.

Diesel Maintenance Tips

It’s like having a mechanic’s crystal ball. Fluid analysis allows you to peer inside an engine, transmission, or hydraulic system to determine whether everything is running smoothly or if a failure looms on the horizon.

Fluid analysis was introduced over 50 years ago with the jet age; the lubrication systems in first-generation turbines for carrier-borne aircraft were especially sensitive to water, salt, and metallic debris. Today, the science of tribology—which analyzes the friction of machinery components and their fluids, including crankcase oil, transmission fluid, coolant, and hydraulic fluid—is well established in the mechanical world.

The return on investment with fluid analysis can be substantial. Analyzing a few ounces of crankcase oil, for instance, can yield reams of information about the current health of an engine and how it’s been maintained. For instance, sodium found in an engine’s lubricating oil may indicate the ingestion of salt-laden mist; this can happen when water leaks onto the top of an engine and is cooked off. Glycol contamination often spells trouble around the cylinder head gasket.

Wear metals, including iron, chrome, nickel, copper, lead, tin, and aluminum, each tell a different story about a component within the engine, from pistons and rings to bearings and valves. Contaminant metals—silicon, sodium, and potassium, for instance—tell a different story, as they’re introduced from such outside sources as dust, seawater, and coolant. When compared to the number of hours accrued by the sample, the quantity of metal therein determines whether there should be cause for concern. Still other contaminants, such as fuel and soot, and imbalances such as acidity and viscosity can indicate malfunctioning fuel-injection systems, the use of incorrect stock oil, or simply that the oil in the engine is old and worn out.

Fluid detective work doesn’t end with crankcase oil. Transmission fluid and coolant also provide fertile ground for testing. Transmission-fluid analysis can often detect issues associated with bearings, clutches, shift-mechanism adjustment, damaged gears, and overheating. Many transmissions include some type of cooler; however, if it’s not working properly, oil can overheat and lose some of its lubricating properties. An improperly adjusted shift cable can cause the same problem. Coolant includes additives that inhibit rust and corrosion; however, over time, these become depleted. Conventional wisdom dictates that cooling systems be flushed and the coolant replaced every two years, but that figure is very conservative. An analysis of the coolant can stave off this service if it’s unnecessary, often paying for itself.

Fluid analysis’s greatest advantage lies in its ability to predict failures before they occur. If your engine’s crankcase oil is diluted with diesel fuel because of a dribbling injector, the problem can be repaired inexpensively—if it’s discovered early. If the defect remains hidden, however, the loss of lubricity could lead to rapid bearing wear and, ultimately, catastrophic engine failure. The average fluid analysis costs about $25, making it a worthwhile investment with every oil change and for coolant and transmission fluid on an annual basis. Here are the websites for the two labs I use on a regular basis: www.polarislabs.com and www.blackstone-labs.com.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting (www.stevedmarineconsulting.com).

Still haven’t solved the problem? Use exhause color to troubleshoot your diesel engine.
Click here to find more maintenance tips.

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Torqeedo Travel 1003

The joy of sailing. A finely balanced hull cutting through waves. Blue sky above. Salt spray sparkling across the bow. Warm breeze against skin. A delightful whiff of gasoline. Wait! Stop! And I did, upon noting the first sniff of gasoline that I’ve detected on any boat that I’ve owned, over a span of almost 40 years.

Gannet, the Moore 24 I bought in 2011, came with not one but two gasoline outboards. I thought I’d keep whichever was more reliable—until that first whiff. Moore 24s have open interiors with limited places to stow outboards and jerry jugs of gasoline below, and I keep my decks uncluttered. On a passage, I’d inevitably find myself sleeping next to the outboard and gasoline and oil. It wasn’t going to happen.

Although before I made my first circumnavigation in her, I sailed the engineless, 37-foot Egregious in and out of her slip in San Diego, having no engine on Gannet was not an option. Her then home, North Point Marina on Lake Michigan, near the Illinois/Wisconsin border, with 1,500 slips the biggest freshwater marina in the world, doesn’t permit “sailing, rowing, paddling, or sculling” inside the breakwater. Neither do many other marinas. You may have noticed that the world is falling apart. Perhaps that’s happening because it’s being run by powerboaters.

After some research, I ordered a German-made electric Torqeedo Travel 1003—and learned that it isn’t easy being green. Why? First, in this case, is cost, and second is range.

A Travel 1003 costs roughly $2,000, more than twice the price of a gas outboard of similar power, and has a range of 2 to 16 miles. The 2 miles is at full throttle, when the 520-watt-hour battery will be discharged in 30 minutes. The 16 miles is at low throttle, when the battery will last eight hours.

On the light and easily driven Gannet, I’ve found that at medium throttle, which provides a speed of 2.5 knots, the battery is good for about three hours and a distance of 7 miles. In practice, this means that in and out of the harbor twice leaves the battery close to needing to be recharged, a task that takes more than 23 hours. Even with a boat that sails well, this short range presents problems.

When coastal cruising, I want to be at the next harbor before dark, and I like to start early. Powering across smooth water at first light before the wind comes up has its charms. With the quiet but not completely silent Torqeedo—there’s a not unpleasant whirring sound—those charms aren’t much compromised. But not many miles are covered, either.

Torqeedo offers a possible solution: a solar panel that rolls up for storage and is said to provide unlimited range in bright sunlight. This panel costs $1,000. Nevertheless, I requested and received one for my 70th birthday. Being old has its compensations.

I knew the dimensions of the panel, but sometimes you have to see something to really understand. When the box arrived, I thought it big. When I opened it and unrolled the panel, Carol, my wife, immediately said, “There’s no place for that on Gannet.” And within the length of its connecting cord, there wasn’t. I sent the panel back.

I’m considering buying a second battery, for $700, that would more than double my range by allowing one battery to be used while the other is being partially recharged by the boat’s main electrical system with its own solar panels. This would also increase the cost of being green to about three times that of an equivalent 3-horsepower gas outboard.

Having said all this, I don’t regret my choice at all.

The good news begins just after I place the clever Moore 24 outboard bracket in its slot in the stern. The bracket is easy to insert and remove even while the boat is under way, and so is the three-part Torqeedo, which, at 31 pounds for the long-shaft version, weighs about the same as a comparable gas outboard.
On the advice of a former Moore 24 owner, I bought the long-shaft version. He meant well, but this was a mistake. The short shaft would’ve worked, saved a pound, taken up less room below, and not required special manipulation to clear the water when the engine isn’t in use.

On our first venture into Lake Michigan with the Torqeedo, I found that even when the engine was locked in the raised position, the long shaft left the prop partially dragging in the water, undercutting sailing performance and creating far more noise than the engine does in use. The solution—to tilt the engine more and secure it with sail ties to the stern-pulpit stanchions—means that I have to remove the tiller arm and stow it below. Slightly awkward, but necessary.

With the shaft tightened to the outboard bracket by two plastic-handled bolts, the battery is slipped into its slot, lowered, then locked by inserting a plastic pin. Finally, the tiller arm is attached and two electric cables connected: one from the battery to the shaft, the other from the tiller arm to the battery.

I’m struck by three things in this process: how well the Torqeedo is engineered and designed, how easy it is to mount and assemble, and how clean the parts are. No grease. No oil. No scrubbing my hands before I touch anything else.

My only reservation about the quality of the Travel 1003 is that the electrical cable connectors are plastic rather than metal and raise a concern about eventual cross threading. Thus far, I haven’t had a problem, but I do think metal connectors would be better and more appropriate on what is a top-end product.

With the Travel 1003 assembled comes a great moment: instant, one-finger starting. Press a button on the tiller arm and the Torqeedo is on, although the only way you know that is by the tiller-arm display lighting up. No repeated pulling on a cord. No curses. No fiddling. Not even a sound. In fact, there’s wonder and doubt that the engine is on, relieved by twisting the tiller handle and seeing the big, two-bladed prop turn. Back to neutral and absolute silence.

The Travel 1003 has forward, reverse, and, for 2,050-pound Gannet, ample power and torque. I don’t know how fast it will drive the little boat, but I’ve had her at 6 knots in one brief burst.

I knew my speed from the remarkable tiller-arm display, with built-in GPS, that shows the percentage of remaining battery charge, remaining range at the current speed, speed over ground, and consumption in watts. Increasing rpm and observing the often-dramatic decrease in range is instructive. An alarm sounds when battery charge drops to 30 percent.

I’ve only approached setting off that alarm once, when haze and a wind shift caused me to come in a mile downwind of the breakwater entrance. Unfortunately, I lowered sails before I realized my mistake. Gannet dislikes being powered into chop, and I had to keep increasing rpm to make any headway. Lesson learned, I’ve subsequently been more careful on my returns to the marina, and I’ve added jib-furling gear so I can resume sailing without having to haul a jib back on deck.

Engines are necessary because people have made them necessary.

I don’t take exception to North Point Marina’s rules. More than 1,500 boats trying, on a busy weekend, to use one narrow, partially silted over entrance, with some of them short-tacking under sail in front of confused powerboaters, is certain chaos and probable disaster.

Harbors all over are now laid out with the expectation that vessels have engines. To clear in with officials in many ports requires tying to docks impossible to reach under sail. So an engine or a tow is needed for the last few hundred yards. And I need an engine for the .75-mile trip from my slip to beyond the maelstrom of powerboat wakes at the breakwater entrance.

For those distances, and for me, the Torqeedo Travel 1003 is excellent.

Webb Chiles has moved Gannet to San Diego to prepare her for his next voyage. Kindle editions of his books are available from Amazon.com.

To read another family’s account of using the Torqeedo, click here.

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Sea Saber Line Cutter

Made in Canada from 316 stainless steel and machined to exacting tolerances, Sea Saber line cutters provide an efficient, razor-sharp method to clear entangled rope, fishnets, and kelp before it damages a boat’s propeller shaft and drivetrain. The one-piece construction makes for easy installation; each Sea Saber kit comes complete with all the necessary hardware, including setscrews, allen keys, a thread locker, and a spotting drill. The cutters are available to fit most standard propeller-shaft diameters from .75 to 4.5 inches in SAE sizes and from 20 millimeters to 70 millimeters in metric sizes.
Starting at $202, (888) 769-8495, seasaber.com

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Torqeedo Deep Blue

German-based Torqeedo electric engines has won the Overall DAME Award at the 2012 Marine Equipment Trade Show for its new Deep Blue 80-horsepower electric outboard. The METS, which ends today in Amsterdam, is the world’s largest marine equipment show, and every year, it is a showcase for new products. The Design Awards METS recognizes winners in seven categories and one overall winner. Some factors that the judges take into consideration are design, styling, quality of construction, suitability for its intended purpose, overall impact on the marine industry, level of innovation, cost effectiveness, and favorable environmental impact.

The jury report states that “the new Deep Blue large electric outboard from Torqeedo GmbH is an exceptional example of groundbreaking research and development – one which will bring great benefits to both the users and builders of marine craft. Through substantial financial investment Torqeedo have successfully combined two established yet distinct technologies – the large outboard engine and electric motor – for the first time. In doing so they have created a revolutionary integrated propulsion system that is striking in its styling and highly notable for its innovation. In bringing this truly original product to the marine market, Deep Blue’s designers have achieved a first-class package that offers convenience, price worthiness and performance. It also promises to provide a cleaner, quieter and more economical boating experience for many people in the years to come.”

For more about the METS and to see a list of all the category winners, visit www.metstrade.com.

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Lehr Propane Outboard

Lehr, which last winter introduced two small propane-powered outboards to much acclaim at the Miami International boat show, has expanded its product line with a 9.9-horsepower model. The 9.9 is available with electric start and comes in both a long- and short-shaft version.

The four-stroke engine burns approximately a gallon of propane per hour wide open (4,600 rpm) or about .44 gallons per hour at 3,000 rpm. Using a typical 20-pound tank of gas, similar to what you have on your barbecue, the engine will run for about 5 hours. Slow it down to cruising speed and you can motor for about 14 hours on the same tank. Suggested retail price for the 9.9-horsepower outboard starts at about $3100.

Lehr (www.golehr.com) turned heads in Miami by introducing the first propane-powered small boat engines with two models, a 2.5- and a 5-horsepower outboard. Propane is easy to find, is less expensive than gasoline, and there are fewer emissions than with a gas-fired two- or four-stroke engine.

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four stroke engines

It’s been 14 years since I did my first article covering outboard engines for Cruising World, and a lot has happened since regarding your options for a low-horsepower motor for your tender or small sailboat.

Johnson and Evinrude have pretty much given up on the smaller engines, and as a result, neither brand is represented in this year’s roundup. And while we do take a look at seven other brands this year, it’s interesting to note that of those, five are made by the same company, and about the only difference between them is the paint job and minor variations in price and the availability of engines and parts, depending upon where you’re located.

Take note: We don’t have a single two-stroke engine in our roundup this year. I think that may be a first. Such engines are still available, but only on a limited basis outside the United States. Environmental Protection Agency emission mandates have effectively driven the two-stroke outboard out of the marketplace, although Evinrude has done extremely well with its larger E-Tec two-stroke line.

This year also marks the first time that we’ve ever felt the need to discuss an electric outboard. Torqeedo is rapidly gaining ground here in the United States, and I have to say, I love the products. This is high-quality, well-engineered equipment—but still at a premium price, I’m afraid. We’ll talk about the value a bit later.
I should also point out that all of the manufacturers represented here offer a range of engine sizes to suit your specific needs, so for that reason, we’ll begin with a bit of background to help you determine what’s best for your boat. That knowledge will help you later on when you actually get down to selecting the engine and brand of your choice.

Our roundup this year includes engines from Honda, Mercury, Nissan, Suzuki, Tohatsu, and Yamaha as well as one electric motor from Torqeedo.

Determine Your Needs
Choosing the proper horsepower has proven to be one of the fundamental decisions to be made over the years, but now with the advent of electric propulsion, we actually see thrust specifications thrown into the mix. For our comparison, we selected engines (and the Torqeedo motor) that are close to either a rating of 9.9 horsepower or, in the case of the Torqeedo, its approximated equivalent based on motor thrust. These are all motors you might expect to find on a typical inflatable used by a cruising sailor. To meet your specific needs, you’ll have to decide on how much power you want, and that’s determined at least in part by limitations based on the size of the dinghy or small boat on which the motor will be mounted.

With that in mind, it’s important to think about exactly what you’ll be doing with the motor. For example, there are many pocket cruising sailboats that run on outboard-engine power, and lots of day sailors want a kicker for when the wind drops to zero. But the question to ask is whether or not you need to have electric start and an alternator to help recharge any onboard batteries. With the exception of the Torqeedo, all of the engines we examined have both electric start and charging capability available at the 9.9-horsepower level. Some 6-horsepower or other smaller engines may have these, too; others may not, so if you have a smaller boat and you want only a 6-horsepower engine but would really like to have the ability to recharge your onboard battery, your choices will be narrowed down. Of course, if you have access to a shore-power battery charger and you’re not planning to spend nights away from the dock, charging capability isn’t really needed.

Next, ask yourself if, while passagemaking, you’re going to need to remove the engine from the dinghy and store it on your larger cruiser. I’d say that the answer, in most cases, is likely to be yes, which means that weight will be a concern. This is a distinct downside to our evolution into four-stroke technology, since they’re considerably heavier than their two-stroke counterparts. Our 9.9-horsepower collection averages 86.2 pounds in weight; that’s a lot for the average person to manhandle without some assistance. Even stepping down to a 4-horse four-stroke doesn’t offer much relief; these all weigh in somewhere between 55 and 60 pounds. If weight is your primary consideration, the Torqeedo could be a real option, since it tips the scales at 38 pounds. Torqeedo also makes a really small Travel motor that has the approximate power of a 3-horsepower engine; it weighs a mere 30 pounds, and that includes the weight of its lithium-ion battery.
Another area of concern is how an engine fits on the boat you’re trying to propel, with transom height the key issue. Traditionally, companies offered two shaft lengths, a short and a long, measuring 15 inches and 25 inches, respectively. Now we’re seeing manufacturers offering three shaft-length options. “Small Outboards at a Glance,” the chart on page 105, shows that some of the models we examined now come in a third, 20-inch shaft length, although not those from Mercury and Yamaha. Torqeedo’s two shaft lengths are unusual, measuring 25 and 30 inches. Shaft length significantly affects how well an individual motor fits on a particular boat.

Finally, there’s the question of fuel. Smaller engines have an integral fuel tank; others don’t. This may be a concern from the perspectives of both space and weight management. It sure is nice not to have to deal with auxiliary fuel tanks, hoses, and primer bulbs all the time, but depending upon your needs, you may have no choice in the matter. And for those who plan on longer spells of motoring, the extended range of a larger fuel tank means that you don’t have to carry a spare jug and can skip refueling while under way.

Service and Warranty
In terms of warranty, Honda wins with its five-year program. Mercury offers a three-year basic warranty with an additional three-year limited corrosion warranty. The other engine makers offer three-year warranties, and Torqeedo offers a two-year warranty.

My advice, when asked if the length of the warranty is a concern? “Forget about it.” With the exception of Honda’s, the protections are quite similar, and frankly, the engines are all really good products with great records for reliability.

The more important questions to ask are “Where is the nearest dealer or service center?” and “Where can I get parts?” For cruising sailors, this is the stuff that really matters. It also matters a lot whether you’re planning to do your own maintenance and repairs or need to pay a mechanic to keep you going. Service and parts accessibility vary considerably among the brands of engines discussed here, and they also vary geographically. Consider where you’re going to be operating, then check out a given brand’s popularity in that region. Again, all of these engines are good, quality products, but even so, they all need maintenance, and all of the gasoline engines are vulnerable to fuel-system contamination, which is all too real, especially when cruising. In fact, that alone makes a strong case for going electric—no dirty gasoline to worry about, and no midnight carburetor overhauls, either!

Brand by Brand
OK, now that we have the big-picture considerations out of the way, let’s take a closer look at each of the brands in our roundup and see what stands out.
Honda’s BF 9.9 HP is more expensive than most of the other engines in our grouping, but don’t forget that the company does offer one of the best warranties. There’s more to it than that, though. This engine also comes with a four-bladed propeller that I can tell you offers some excellent pulling power! Electric starting is standard at the price shown in “Small Outboards at a Glance.” This motor is also the heaviest of our selection, but on a tender that you’re going to hang from davits, that won’t matter. This engine does have an available power-tilt feature and does come standard with overheat and low-oil-pressure alarms. The electric-start version also has a relatively high-output 12-amp alternator for keeping your battery up to charge. This engine is a great choice for the pocket cruiser and is available in three shaft lengths.

Mercury offers three versions of its 9.9-horsepower outboard: the Standard, the ProKicker, and the 9.9 BigFoot. The ProKicker and BigFoot versions are only available in a 20-inch shaft length, so that’s a limiting factor. These two engines also have gear ratios that differ from those on the Standard, which should give them a bit more thrust for dealing with heavy loads. Unfortunately, none of the versions offers more than a 6-amp charging system. All three are actually made by Tohatsu, but they have some nice Mercury-specific nuances. Basic service and parts are widely available.

The outboards from Nissan and Tohatsu are really the same engines, with different paint and decals. Both brands are available in three shaft lengths, so they can be matched to various boat transoms quite accurately. They’re both limited to 6-amp alternator output. Because they compete heavily in the marketplace, these engines can often be had at deep discounts. Parts are widely available globally. These are good, general-purpose workhorses with greatly improved corrosion resistance over earlier models available from either brand.

Suzuki builds really nice engines. The manufacturer is a five-time recipient of the National Marine Manufacturers Association’s Customer Satisfaction Index award. Although their dealer network has grown over the last few years, check to make sure that service and parts are available in your area—and where you intend to cruise. This has been an issue for some folks in the past.

When it comes to Torqeedo, what can we say? This is a whole new concept: quiet, no fumes, lightweight, environmentally friendly. Really high-tech features on this motor include a GPS-based monitoring system to keep you constantly up-to-date with how many more miles you can go on the built-in battery’s charge. The motor can be easily converted to remote control for pocket cruisers. The company also offers a really cool small version for powering kayaks and similar craft, and I think these might be the answer to a small dinghy that you want to electrify.

Yamaha 9.9-horse engines are available in 15- and 20-inch shaft lengths and can be purchased with a 6-amp alternator. In addition to the model we selected for this roundup, the company is introducing new 4- and 6-horsepower four-stroke engines this year. Yamaha engines are renowned for their reliability and worldwide service availability. We put these in the workhorse category: no frills, no gimmicks, just a good, reliable series of engines.

Ed Sherman, a frequent CW contributor, is an education specialist at the American Boat & Yacht Council. Go to www.cruisingworld.com to read his how-to blog, Ed’s Boat Tips.

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